[Comprehensive] adhere to traditional crafts: the elderly hand-operated shoes for safety escort

In an interview with the Fuxiangxin shoe factory in Houjiayu Community in Fancheng District, an old sixty-year-old man dressed in plain clothes is using his sickle and needlework to hand-make protective shoes. Gu Taijian made leather shoes with carefully selected leather. Because of its good quality and low price, it has attracted many customers. Some customers often come to patronize, a buy is a hundred pairs.

The old man is Gu Taijian, owner of the shoe factory. Gu Taijian, 62, is Shiyan, and his story begins in the 1970s. “At that time, I just graduated from the technical school and was assigned to the local labor insurance shoe factory in Ji County. Many people in the village were envious of me.” Gu Taijian told reporters that at that time, there were few factories in Ji County, and it was many people who went to work in the factory dreaming of dreams. Things.

After entering the factory, Gu Taijian learned to make shoes with the master. From cutting leather to repairing, from design to sewing, I do not know how many times the hand was scratched before mastering this craft. In 1999, Gu Taijian’s labor insurance shoe factory was restructured. Gu Taijian thought that he had been working in a shoe factory for more than 20 years and he would make shoes as a craft. Why not open a handmade shoe store and become an owner himself. Gu Taijian told this idea to his wife who was working in Xiangyang and received the wife’s strong support.

In March 2000, Gu Taijian's Fu Xiangxin shoe factory opened near the Moon Bay Park in Fancheng District. Gu Taijian's factory mainly produces high-top shoes, low-top shoes and low-boots. “Don’t look at these shoes and their quality is good. Users are very fond of it.” Gu Taijian said.

In July this year, the demolition near Moon Bay Park, Gu Taijian moved the factory to the post Jia Zhang community. “To make a pair of labor insurance shoes, the labor cost is about ten yuan. Plus the raw materials, it can be said that the profits are minimal. Hand-made shoes not only need technology, but also need hand-strength. Now fewer and fewer young people are willing to do this.” Gu Taijian said.

Gu Taijian’s daughter and son-in-law work in the United States. Not long ago, the daughter called Gu Taijian and asked him to shut down the factory and go to the United States. Gu Taijian did not agree. Gu Taijian said that he wanted to pass on the craft of hand-made leather shoes.

Chinese traditional craftsmanship refers to the craft varieties and techniques that have been handed down from generation to generation, have a history of more than one hundred years and complete technological process, are made of natural materials, and have distinctive ethnic styles and local characteristics. Professionals engaged in the design and production of traditional craftsmanship are called traditional craftsmen.

The status quo of traditional craftsmanship is relatively complex. Some craftsmanship is faced with misplaced situations. The main reason is that the craftsmanship is complex, the economic efficiency is low, and there are no follow-ups. The state has introduced a lot of policies to save, such as intangible cultural heritage, and social media are also vigorously promoting. Of course, more and more people are paying attention to it and trying to save it in various ways. It is hoped that these old crafts will be inherited from generation to generation.

Related Links:

1, adhesive shoe technology: also known as cold glue process, is the use of adhesives to the upper, inner bottom, the outer bottom together. Due to the different materials of the adhesive surface of the upper and sole, the type and nature of the adhesive used are also different, such as neoprene adhesive, polyurethane adhesive, SBS adhesive and the like. Due to the simple craftsmanship, short production cycle, high production efficiency, low manufacturing cost, rapid change of color variety, and easy expansion and reproduction, the adhesive processing technology is the most widely used assembly technology in the footwear industry, accounting for 80 percent of the total footwear products. %the above. This process is most widely used in leather shoes and sports shoes.

2, sewing shoes process: also known as seam shoes process, is the use of sewing thread to the shoe and soles and other connected parts of the sewing process. The sewing thread used is a castor yarn, which has the characteristics of high strength, low elongation, fast moisture absorption, and high abrasion resistance. The sewing shoe technology is most widely used in leather shoe products, mainly sewing leather shoes, sewing flanging shoes, and sewing shoes. Although its technology history is long, the operation is complex, and the production efficiency is low, the features of the product structure, style, and durability are not replaced by other processes. In addition to the development and improvement of the machine sewing process, it is more in line with modern production and consumer needs, thus occupies an important position in footwear products, and has auxiliary functions in the process of adhesive shoes, and thus resulting in seams Process.

3, Molded shoe technology: It is a process method that uses the rubber outsole to produce the rubber flow and mold clamping pressure during the vulcanization process and bonds the outsole and shoe upper together. The outsole and the upper are rubber bonded under high temperature and high pressure, so the molded shoe process has the advantages of firm bottom and firm adhesion, abrasion resistance, and scratch resistance. Due to the long production cycle of moulds and the slow change of color varieties, it is suitable for the production of large-volume products. Labor protection shoes, hiking shoes, military police shoes and other products are mostly produced by molding process. The molding process is a moldless vulcanization process derived from a moldless vulcanization process, and is often used in leather shoe products.

4, injection molding shoe technology: also known as even help injection molding process, is to melt the plastic injection into the outer mold and glued together with the upper process. The material of the outer sole is mostly polyvinyl chloride, thermoplastic polyurethane, thermoplastic rubber and the like. The process is to complete the bottom adhesive assembly under the conditions of automatic feeding, automatic plasticization, automatic metering, automatic injection, automatic mold closing and mold opening, and automatic molding, so it has the advantages of high production efficiency and automatic production. It has applications in the production of leather shoes, cloth shoes, sports shoes and plastic shoes.

5, vulcanized shoe technology: it is the process method of bonding the uppers, along the strips and the outsole firsts and the uppers, and heating and pressurizing in the vulcanization tank to form vulcanization. The outer bottom of the process is divided into dieless (calendered) and molded forms. Due to the relatively rough process and poor quality control, only low-end products can usually be produced. In recent years, due to the introduction of advanced production technology from abroad, product quality has been greatly improved. Because vulcanized shoes are comfortable and economical to wear, and they are efficient and cost-effective in production, they are still used in the production of cloth shoes and rubber shoes and leather shoes, and the production volume is large.